Frequently asked
Straight answers, before you ever call.
The nine questions Fairview homeowners ask us most — answered the same way we'd answer them in your kitchen.
Usually where the water line enters the house: along the front foundation wall, in the basement or crawl space, in the garage, or in a ground box near the street-side water meter. It's a wheel or lever valve — turn clockwise (or a quarter-turn for a lever) to close. Find it today, before you need it in a panic, and show everyone in the house.
Yes — one drip per second wastes roughly 3,000 gallons a year, and the constant moisture slowly eats the valve seat and finish, turning a cheap cartridge swap into a full faucet replacement. Fix it while it's still the small job.
The usual suspects: sediment buildup stealing tank capacity (common in hard-water areas), a failed lower heating element on electric units, a broken dip tube mixing cold water with hot, or simply a tank too small for the household. A flush-and-inspect visit tells us which — and whether repair or replacement makes financial sense.
We'd rather you didn't. Caustic cleaners generate heat that can soften PVC and corrode older metal traps, they rarely clear the actual blockage, and they turn the standing water into a hazard for whoever opens the trap next — often us. A plunger or a drain snake is safer; for repeat clogs, the cause needs diagnosing, not dissolving.
Anything actively causing damage or making the home unlivable: burst or leaking supply pipes, sewage backing up into the house, no water at all, a gas smell near a water heater, or a failed sump pump with a storm coming. If you're unsure, call anyway — we'll tell you honestly whether it can wait for a regular appointment at regular rates.
Check your water meter: turn off every fixture and appliance, note the reading, wait 30 minutes without using water, and check again. Movement means a leak. Other tells: an unexplained jump in the water bill, warm spots on floors, musty smells, or a water heater that runs constantly. We can pinpoint the source without exploratory demolition.
A conventional tank: 8–12 years, longer with annual flushing and a healthy anode rod. Tankless units: 18–22 years with yearly descaling. If your tank is past ten years and you're seeing rusty hot water or moisture around the base, plan the replacement on your schedule — not the tank's.
Emergency after-hours calls carry a call-out fee, which we quote on the phone before dispatching — and credit toward the repair if you proceed. The repair itself is priced from the same flat-rate book we use at 2 p.m. on a Tuesday. No "midnight multiplier" on the work.
Before the first hard freeze: disconnect garden hoses and shut off outdoor spigot valves, insulate exposed pipes in crawl spaces and garages, keep the house above 55°F even when away, and open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls during cold snaps. On extreme nights, a pencil-thin trickle from the furthest faucet keeps water moving and pipes intact.
Didn't find your question? Ask us directly — a plumber, not a bot, will answer.
Still got a question with water behind it?
Call or book — the diagnosis fee is stated up front, always.